"Agrajag" (Agrajag)
11/25/2014 at 09:47 • Filed to: w123, subaru
1
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"Agrajag" (Agrajag)
11/25/2014 at 09:47 • Filed to: w123, subaru | 1
| 8 |
My brother was borrowing my jack and jack stands to do the front rotors and pads on his wife's Impreza. With the starter on my 240D getting less and less reliable, and with the promise of two warm days, I needed my stuff back.
I figured we do her car first since it should be quick.
Task#1
The location of the circled bolt(strut to steering knuckle) blocks the removal of the caliper bracket bolt by socket wrench. I tried with an open end wrench, but could feel it was just going to strip it. The strut bolt was proving difficult to remove as well. So, I hosed everything down with some PB blaster and off to the hardware store.
New tool acquired. I'd been meaning to buy one of these, now was the time.
Everything came apart easy after that, and the front right side was done.
Time to start the left side.
Son of a...
Strut bolt came out easy. Upper bolt on caliper bracket came out easy. The lower bolt was one with the bracket. The impact nor the breaker bar could get this bolt to budge. Not wanting to make another run for a torch, we broke out the trusty, long ass pipe. With barely any exertion the head sheared right off. Done for the day.
Monday came and the quickest anyone could get the bracket was 3 days. We ended up buying a complete caliper just to use the bracket. A few minutes later the job was done, car passed inspection, and my sister-in-law has a safe(ish) car.
Task #2
Replace the starter motor on my 240D.
While the internet is a invaluable resource of knowledge, people can make things sound too easy. This response on a forum gave me such hope.
Piece of cake.
You won't even need ramps, the job can be done from above on this car. Remove air cleaner, battery and battery tray to gain all the access you need. Disconnect the wires at the front of the starter and the front bracket (you might need to remove one motor mount arm bolt). The two rear bolts should be 10mm allens, both the top and bottom can be reached from above. Once loose, slide the starter forward, then angle up lifting it behind the manifold. Assembly is reverse.
I saw no way to do this all from above. Removing what he said, as well as the heater hose in the picture below, does give you enough room to remove it, but there is no way to access all the bolts from above. The majority of wrenching needs to happen under the car.
Once all the fasteners were removed, it pulled right out. Put the new one in and she starts like a champ.
Not a bad two days. Spent some time with my brother. Learned more about my car, and ruined a shirt.
Pic taken after I removed my gloves. :(
505Turbeaux
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 09:49 |
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you missed a spot
OPPOsaurus WRX
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 09:50 |
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damn bolts. I did the same thing trying to help my buddy with the brakes on his Outback
Aaron M - MasoFiST
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 10:02 |
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Weirdly, that means that the 4-pot front calipers on my WRX are easier...to remove, at least. Compressing all four pistons in the brake rotor at once to get the new pads in took some doing, to say the least.
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 10:04 |
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Off-topic: I've just been referring to your rust test posts for plans on repainting a firewall. I noticed you said Miracle Paint was better than POR-15 - was that kind of in the sense of a more resilient barrier, or better rust adhesion? I may actually brush-asphalt some of what I'm messing with, so top coat permeability isn't that much of a concern, but adhesion and rust kill are.
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Agrajag
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
11/25/2014 at 10:24 |
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I've been slacking on updates. I prefer the miracle paint because of its consistency. It's a lot thicker but still dries even and smooth. Here's the current status.
unfortunately the miracle paint is proving to be about as effective as por-15.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 10:34 |
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I guess it's all about how good the prep was, and how effective a top seal was. POR-15 (and I'd assume Miracle Paint) need to be somewhat polar to work, and that makes for a layer that's *not* impermeable to moisture. Undercoat *can* be impermeable, but it isn't always, and moisture can be trapped underneath it - further, it can be permeable to vapor and oxygen.
We'll chalk all this up as another vote for getting what I can sandblasted, too.
NaturallyAspirated
> Agrajag
11/25/2014 at 13:59 |
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I'd be interested to read a mini-review on that electric impact gun. I have a few pneumatic impacts, but since I don't have a compressor with enough oomph to run them, I'm back to really long breaker bars with cheaters. I tried the Harbor Freight electric impact, but it didn't have enough torque.
Also, I'm convinced that automotive forums are populated by a race of squid-people, who have tentacles instead of arms, and thus can reach every bolt easily from any angle. That's the best explanation I can come up with for some of the advice I've read.
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Agrajag
> NaturallyAspirated
11/25/2014 at 14:18 |
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I borrowed one when my pneumatic one bit the dust, and the axle bolt that 5 ft of breaker bar and pipe couldn't remove was out in two seconds with this.